Memories are still fresh and indelible, and I want to share with you all the information I got.
With this trip, the puzzle of Europe is almost complete, and so the next year or will cross the borders of our continent (not that I mind!) Or the choice will fall between Iceland, Russia and Belarus, Ukraine, or Western Balkans, even if it continues to blend the idea in his head to drop everything and wander around for months. It 'also the second year that does not use the mythical inter rail ticket, I think now I'll stop at an altitude of seven consecutive, will be very difficult in the future return to use after considering the goals that I would like to achieve.
's trip this summer took me to the discovery of the last two EU states, countries still little explored mainly by Italian travelers.
We took a return flight Rome-Sofia with the low-cost airline Wizz Air (100 €), by organizing our first route through Bulgaria, then Romania, finally back in the Bulgarian capital ...
Bulgaria, is the most mysterious country in the last terra incognita. A small country with about 8 million people and a landscape ranging from mountains and forests, green plains and farmland, rivers and valleys and an occasional small town. You will see animals that graze freely and you will also find them on the roadside, you can see the storks that nest on utility poles or on chimneys. Bulgaria is still a poor country, you'll know as soon as you turn away from the capital, the train will see many buildings and especially closed factories, abandoned and in decay. The average wages are around € 250 per month but the cost of living is very high. Are evident the damage that unbridled capitalism has produced in recent years as well as class differences and Creates the gap between rich and poor, said that a large proportion of the population misses the old republic, and how he's wrong?
For us in the West is therefore still a very cheap destination and at the same time interesting. The people are very decent, helpful and polite, speak English with the exception of a few young people and those working in tourism.
The accommodation facilities such as hostels, have often been developed in recent years. The prices for a bed ranging from 14-20 Lever (7-10 €).
and delicious cuisine, especially in the many kiosks near the station to buy something quickly (1-2 Lv). Eating in a tavern-restaurant popular, cheap and tasty, for a meal you spend between Lv 6-8 (3-4 €). The dishes that I recommend to try are:
meats (sudjuk, lukanka, pastrami) soups (Ciobar) made in different ways, but especially those who are strong and delicious and Musaka Kavarma (pork or chicken into small pieces , tomatoes, peppers, mushrooms, onions, often covered with a whole egg and a fantastic sauce) served in pretty bowls of clay, or you can choose Kebabceta (oblong patties of minced meat) or Kufteta (in spherical form), without forgetting of course the stuffed peppers (pulneni cusk). Accompany it all with a nice cold beer as the Bulgarian Kamenitza or Zagorka, digested with rakyia, a kind of brandy, even the sweetest chew (anisette, sambuca seems) is not to be thrown away and of course the wine that is produced numerous .
to visit the country safely used the train, the railway network is well developed and covers much of the country. The trains are slow and old, but travel over is really fascinating to meet people and see landscapes from the windows magnificent, plus really cost very little. The Sofia-Varna is the longest in the country (500 miles) is Lv 20 (10 €). The site of the railway company is well done, with an English version, you'll find information on schedules and prices.
The bus, faster but more expensive, use them to reach those places not served by train.
Once in the country you'll soon notice some unusual things that certainly will not forget. First thing to know is that the Bulgarians are our hand to say yes and no with his head, in fact, an affirmative answer to the shake side while for the negative tilt back and forth. So do not be surprised to hear you say "from" and see turn your head left and right, even if they know you'll be amazed at the same moment and perplexed, as it happened to me. The other oddity is that you will see the leaflets with the obituary, and a lot of photos of the deceased, hung on walls, poles and trees that remain there until the rain or wind them off, they could spend days like years . But the first thing you will definitely notice the alphabet, Cyrillic is used here because, at first sight it appears quite incomprehensible, you will not understand even the most basic information, but do not worry too much, after a while 'you will become familiar and begin to distinguish letters, some guidelines are given with the Latin alphabet.
1 € = 0.50 Leva
Sofia, the capital city is a small and human scale, but not very pretty to see, lies at the foot of Vitosha mountain, accessible by day trip. The airport is located a few kilometers east of the hundred, consisting of two terminals (Terminal 1, the smaller part and where it comes from the Wizz Air and smaller companies) to reach the center, take bus 84 (the last stop is in front of the terminal 1) and ending his race at the university, but if you're heading to the center (Mary Boulevard Luisa, etc.) you should change in Pliska and from there take a bus between 214-213-305, down through the bridge of lions. The ticket costs 0.70 Lv (35 eurocents) and in theory should make for a your backpack. Or take a taxi, I would recommend an officer for the city center will cost about 10 Lv.
not sleep for worry over the last years have opened many hostels in Sofia between them there I can recommend three:
Backpaker's Inn, struma street 6, the third left of Maria Luisa Boulevard coming from the station (north). It 's a flat on the first floor of a building consists of three rooms (6 beds Lv 18, Lv 4 beds and 20 double), two bathrooms, kitchen and common room with internet, breakfast included. You breathe a nice atmosphere, the staff is polite and friendly and socialize easily, it seems more to be in a university apartment.
Sisters Inn, 168 Boulevard Slivnitsa, coming from the north across the bridge of lions and turn right you will find it after a few meters. It has 4 rooms (18-20 Lv) kitchen, common room, internet and breakfast is included.
Hostel Mostel, Macedonia Boulevard 2 °, a side of Hristo Botev Boulevard, parallel to the boulevard Vitosha, prices Lv 14 to 20, where calls are booked to pick you up at the train station / bus. Breakfast included, internet and kitchen available in more than offer you a beer and a pizza or pasta dish, 10% discount if you are more than three nights or if you are more than three people.
Two days to visit the Bulgarian capital is enough, unfortunately, despite being a nice city there is little to see. Walking along the boulevard Maria Luisa and Vitosha (the Via Veneto Sofia) until you reach a busy park at the end of which stands the great palace of culture, stop in the square Sveta Nedelya (between one and another avenue) where there is the church of the same name. The mosque and the baths with a beautiful garden full of fountains, where mineral water springs (many Bulgarians who fill bottles, too bad it's hot), the small church in the underground passage semisprofondata warehouse Tzum, Battenberg Square the center of political life where there is the architectural masterpiece, the former home of the Soviet party, then you can not miss the early Byzantine Aleksandar Nevski cathedral.
to eat something quickly several shops selling kebabs and sandwiches, sweets, try it like pastry filled with ricotta or other.
the evenings I have no particular locale to report, however, know that in the summer outside of the weekend is difficult to fill, though some rooms are located east of the square near Piazza Sveta Neleya blacks Batenberg. A district that we're told to be very busy in the evening, to meet local youths, is Studentski grad (city of students) located a few miles south of downtown and accessible by bus or taxi. Anyway, we spent a couple of pleasant evenings in a friendly and cheerful open-air bar where a DJ played good music in the park near the stadium of CSKA, quiet and alternative.
The railway station is located north of downtown, trains throughout the country, more daily flights to Istanbul, Moscow and Bucharest via Ukraine, Serbia. We we moved from Sofia to Plovdiv, between 2-3 hours cost 6.70 Lv. Trains for Veliko Tarnovo, Gorna change at Orijahovica, 5 at 11:50 Lv.
Unexpected Cause we decided not to visit the Rila Monastery, the most beautiful and well-known in Bulgaria, situated 120 km south of the capital, where possible dedicategli a day. To achieve this there is a bus departing from Sofia in the morning, too bad that the return is early in the afternoon, almost forcing you to stay there. A possible alternative that I have devised, is to take the train or bus to Blagoevgrad, from there buses leave for Rila (to be checked anyway) Finally, from the village to the monastery, 20 km, a bus goes back and forth or you can hitchhike with groped or otherwise. Route in reverse to return the last train from Sofia to Blagoevgrad to 21.30.
Plovdiv, Bulgaria's second city has been inhabited since the time of the Thracians, Greeks later, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans. Situated on six hills is a very lively city with many cultural events with crowded streets and a charming and interesting old town, a real open air museum.
Several hostels to stay, among these I recommend:
Hikers Hostel, 53 Suborna street in the heart of Old Town, is the road hauls Stamboliski square one where the promenade ends Aleksandrovska. Located in a beautiful 19th-century beds in dormitories have 6-8 persons, 20 Lv breakfast, possibility to use internet and kitchen. Reachable from the railway station by bus get off 7,20,26 after the tunnel and take the road up the hill, walking is a good walk especially with backpackers, about 20 minutes.
Raisky Kat Hostel, PR Slaveikov 6, also in the old town, not many small beds, has double rooms with \\ without bathroom and 3 beds 24-22 Lv 20 Lv.
PBI Hostel, Naiden Gerov 13, in parallel to the left of the pedestrian promenade, Lv 20 bed dormitory, kitchen and internet connection available.
To eat a variety of eateries in the center but also near the station, right there in front of the square, at the beginning of Ruski Boulevard, there is a good and Economic with indoor and outdoor tables and traditional cuisine.
In Plovdiv, there are many beautiful things to see, the old town is a veritable open-air architectural museum and it is wonderful to get lost in its narrow and steep streets in a set of ancient ruins and high walls that hide flowered courtyards and fountains. Then quietly walks these streets breathing the atmosphere that cause, stop to admire the many baroque houses magnificent frescoes. Do not miss even the Roman theater built by Marcus Aurelius in the second century, the ruins of Nebet Tepe where you have a view over Plovdiv Alexandrovska Street, the main pedestrian street full of shops and cafes and always very crowded. To the east of the center on top of a high hill is the monument to the Red Army while you relax in the park Na Svoboda, next to the large square where is located and the hotel Trimontium.
The city has a good nightlife with many cafes and bars especially in the streets Konstantin Iricek, Gladstone and Alexandrovska.
The train station and bus terminal are located south of downtown and close together, about 1.5 km to Sofia Many trains, including links to the coast and the north. Veliko Tarnovo for a train in the morning with a change in Stara Zagora (5 h) and a direct in the afternoon (5h). Therefore Plovdiv after we went in the pearl of the Balkans.
Veliko Tarnovo is one of the most extraordinary places in Bulgaria, the river meanders Jantra it describes seven enclosed in an amphitheater of green wooded mountains. Case suspended in space set against each other in bulk, roads that intersect the hill. A little gem not to be missed, you too will be fascinated.
careful, only the major streets bear the name.
Here too many hostels, but also individuals who rent rooms, you will stop for way to offer it.
Hostel Mostel, Iordan Indjeto 10, near the fortress of Carevec, in a small road that heads towards the River. From the fortress, take the road down to the left and then left again. In a beautiful newly renovated in rustic style, all new and recently opened. Really a good address, sleeper from Lv 14 (7 €) but is more likely to pay 20 Lv. Breakfast included, possibility to use internet and kitchen, between 19 and 20 will offer beer and pizza (or hot dog). The staff is friendly and helpful, there is also a beautiful garden to relax and cook something on the barbecue. If calls are to take the station. 10% discount for more than 3 nights or 3 people. From the train station take bus 5 and get off at the fortress.
Low Costel Hostel, Assen Ruskov 6, located in the center, in a side of the main street, just around the central post office information. Rooms with 4-6 beds Lv 20-18, small, with only 12 seats, has a kitchen. Accessible by rail with buses 4,5,10,13 get the mail.
Nomads Hostel, Gurko street 23, in the heart of the old town, in a wonderful way Gurko. Lv 18-20 bed, breakfast and kitchen available. Free transportation, 10% discount for more of two people or nights.
Hiker Hostel, Rezervoarska street 91, in the area of \u200b\u200bSomovodene one over the main street. Breakfast, internet, kitchen at a cost of 16-20 Lv.
Rosa Grigorova, a nice lady who rents rooms to handle 20 per person including breakfast, in a building in a quiet street in slope between ul. Stambolov and ul. Gurko.
For eating I recommend you absolutely not miss it, the Art restaurant (tavern), the main road, near the square, down the stairs of the small road that heads towards ul. Gurko. Apt Restorant see the sign and almost opposite is another restaurant. A fabulous place with a terrace offering a magnificent view, excellent traditional home cooking, at very low prices (6-7 handle a full meal), friendly service and nice even if you do not speak English will understand. It will not be difficult to socialize with the two ladies who run the tavern (one is called Zora), is the cook and the waitress and it is likely that in the end they will thank you. A unique and fantastic. It may also occur, as happened to us, of being stopped by a lady of about fifty a little 'chubby, always in a hurry, who speaks English and who propose that the building is the tavern where he rented rooms, that's Rosa Grigorova.
The charming Veliko Tarnovo offers an exceptional view to the visitor, the provision of houses perched on the mountain and relax all the way around the woods evoke a special attraction which is hard to resist. Wander the narrow streets of the old city, take a step back in time, particularly not miss ulica ulica Gurko and Rakovski and alight from time to time to admire the view you have in front of your eyes. The main attraction is undoubtedly the strength and beauty of Carevec, input 4 Lv students half. A fantastic rocky outcrop surrounded by a thick wall with battlements, a real impregnable citadel, entrenched behind its formidable walls. It also offers a view across the valley. On some summer nights is lit for a few minutes by a show of lights and sounds. Surely there miss then a strange monument with four riders that lies beyond the river, Assen is dedicated to the founders of the city. Many churches, which if you want to give some 'time.
Tarnovo is a university town, there are the amusements, pubs and nightclubs are along the main road, choose the one that suits your tastes, though the summer is not the best time.
We were lucky because we could see the international folklore festival that takes place from late July to early August in the park near the post, and ask all of you can advise. I do not know if it happens every year, but once there you will have no problems to find out. The folk groups from around the world with music, costumes and traditional dances to be seen absolutely, do not forget it easily. See performing the Bulgarian team was an experience that touched us a lot.
The train station is located 3 miles south of downtown, is accessible by bus (0.60 Lv) do it because surely someone will know the place, bad talk going with the conductor to be curious about your presence. Or a taxi will cost about 3 Lv. I suggest you take the bus from the station towards the center while the return in the evening especially if you use the taxi. At the station there's sure to taxi drivers, prefer the official ones, are not dangerous but certainly ask you something more. Not many direct trains to other major cities that pass through the station in Veliko Tarnovo, but they all stop at the railway junction of Gorna Orjahovica (13 Km from Tarnovo) reached by regional trains or taxis. From here we left and headed alas, Bulgaria Bucharest by train from Sofia and Romania after the proceeds towards Moscow. From Veliko Tarnovo the Romanian capital and the rate is 25.60 for a seat Lv and Lv 35.20 for six berth, calculated from Sofia about a dozen more leverage. The train leaves every day from the Bulgarian capital at 19.30 and stops at Gorna Orjahovica midnight and arrive in Bucharest at 6.15
Unfortunately we could not visit the coast, would always much longer than you have available, but if you do not want to miss Varna, the third city in the country that fills the summer and offers many attractions.
Nasebar, roughly midway between Varna and Burgas, a large town situated on a rocky peninsula, a beautiful place with winding streets. In summer is the most tourist coast. Accessible by bus from the two cities.
Sozopol (33 km south of Burgas) a beautiful village built on a rocky peninsula. Very crowded in summer.
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