My eyes alternated between the beautiful valleys that surround us and guide. Giuliano, hands on the wheel and eyes on the rough road, listen to my instructions. Three days in the car before returning to train travel, was the only way to discover this ancient region.
The alternate route along some small countries towards Săpânţa, where we will then continue through the dell'Iza valley until you reach the step Prislop, crossing the Carpathian Mountains and arrive in Bucovina. After the visit of this land will return to Cluj Napoca ....
we enter among rolling hills and scenery, idyllic and enchanting region of Maramures. Romania to the north of the border with Ukraine here last surviving peasant culture in Europe. A very poor area and a plunge in the past, it seemed to go back over a century in a place where history stopped.
Along these valleys endless succession of villages with old wooden houses old wells and rocker, beautiful wooden churches in a landscape of haystacks, oxen yoked and references in the fields. Many artisans are continuing their activities and are waiting for you ready to sell the products of their labor.
After the city of Baia Mare Cosău arrive in the valley and that of the Mara. Few, very few vehicles, the carts are to obstruct the roadway. An ancient means of transport here is still the most used, people and goods moving with slow pace. On the edge of peasants, armed with their tools and walk in peace. Şişeşti; Surdesti with the little wooden church from the giant spire; Budesti with church of 1643 icons, and enriched with four turrets external Sarba, Calinesti, Corneşti, Fereşti numerous wooden churches, are the names of the places that we cross.
Dozens of people resting at the roadside in search of a passage. Public transportation is almost non-existent and the only alternative is to hitchhike or carrostop. After initial indifference, we enter the local spirit by uploading a traditional woman from clothing. Calculate your age is impossible, I think shows a lot more years than he has. They exchange a few words, arrived at their destination kindly decline your payment. The custom who wants to help her with some to transport costs.
Giulesti In the village of ramshackle wooden cottege have in the backyard trees which are hung to dry pots and pans. A Berbeşti a large crucifix in the Renaissance style attracts all the attention. Wherever elderly with its colorful costumes and the typical flowery skirts sit on benches at the edge of the houses and the road. Animals roam free in every direction and the investment risk is strong.
The sun is going down when you enter the village of Săpânţa, there diregiamo Poieni to Camping in the countryside and adjacent to a stream. Our accommodation consists of a spartan bungalow which would be more appropriate to define the hut. The dinner, on the basis of trout caught in the river nearby, is delicious. There befriends a Dutch family who is visiting the country in caravans. Exchange our impressions of the journey and recount past experiences.
mandatory first stop was the unforgettable "Cemetery Allegro" the cemetery with a painted wooden crosses that adorn its tombstones. Next to each other in a more or less intense blue color with the representation of the deceased committed to do its job and a nice epitaph recalls, often in jest, its main features.
continue through the lush valley dell'Iza. After the village of Vadu Izei we take a break in the beautiful Orthodox monastery of Barsana. Let's take a ride to a girl and her daughter, confessed that her husband is working abroad as many around here. One after another we touch all the villages along the way: Botiza, Poienile Izei, Ieud where stands the oldest church in the region (1364), Dragomir.
The landscape is now changing, we approach the Carpathian mountain range that marks the boundary between the departments of Maramures and Moldova. The last country that exceeded Bag, leaves us perplexed. The number of cars we encounter are badged Italy, it seems that more than 3000 people have emigrated to our country.
Prislop After the pass we enter the Bukovina, the north-western part of Moldavia, rich in medieval monasteries and painted wooded hills. We spent the evening in a more spartan camping spot on the final day. The whole morning is dedicated to visiting the significant monasteries that enrich the area. Their paintings are of an overwhelming beauty and have a pilgrimage, even for two non-believers like us, leads us to see almost all.
Many miles still separate us from our forced arrival in the evening. We must again pass the mountain barrier this time we will pass through the gorges Bicaz. A long winding road climbs up to 5 km through the mountains between 300 m high limestone walls The path runs directly under the rocks jutting out of the car show is impressive and stately seems to get inside rock, the ascent is very slow. In the top you reach another place of rare beauty, the lake Lacul Roşu or red. The lake is extraordinarily full of stumps of dead trees protruding from its murky waters. A bizarre wonder that leave lasting impressions. Roadside old ladies selling berries and an odd-colored beverage that we call clear juice pine.
began the descent, we entered Transylvania, but this is already another story.
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